Bespoke? Made-to-measure? Industrial measure? Defining the concepts
by hugoparis
Gentlemen,
As we have frequently marvelled at on PG, the “made-to-measure” wave currently surfed by brands is far from having delivered its last lies or its last excesses.
Today, pretty much anything can be made-to-measure: cars (the success of the Fiat 500 is mainly due to the almost unlimited choice of colour, pattern and accessories), bikes (the latest trend with central Paris hipsters), furniture jewellery, luggage, soap, candy and even your sneakers (neither Nike nor Adidas could resist this trend going against their essentially collective “tribe” marketing business model. Not their first trend induced contradiction)…
Like a tsunami, this new 21st century marketing paradigm, is sweeping everything and everyone in its way. It redefines terms by hackneying them and, as always, by taking away their substance.
And if one area is at the frontline of “me” marketing (as opposed to the obsolete “us” marketing), it’s men’s fashion. Besides, it is interesting that women’s fashion is totally immune against this trend and not affected at all by the bespoke invasion. There are many reasons for this: ladies are playing in a much wider creative field than gents, and simply do not have the time (and do not need) to build a long lasting personal style. For women, versatility is a very highly valued asset (they must be follow trends, which us men abhor being seen as). This sociologically fascinating topic will be the focus of an upcoming post on this blog.
Thus, in times of semantic usurpation and wild word creation (a Newspeak of the marketing kind), we thought urgent to redefine, at least among ourselves, the designations (unregulated thus far) and, most importantly, unveil what lies beneath them in terms of craftsmanship and quality.
Frankly, it is becoming harder and harder to find one’s way in the designation imbroglio (lucky wine producers, with their “protected designations”!) aiming at giving to all, even the most industrial, garments a sheen of customization: bespoke, made-to-order (Ralph Lauren), made-to-measure, custom fit, custom-made, industrial measure, tailor made by appointment (Hugo Boss), handcrafted by order, Hand-tailored, but also Fatto a mano su misura (Armani), Sartorial (Jill Sander) etc.
As Priscille de Lassus recently wrote in “Métiers d’Arts” magazine, whose last edition focused on sartorial culture, today, everyone claims his place in tailoring and fills his communication materials with gorgeous scissors and stitches visuals. Meanwhile, the true nature of the product is often very different. Most have nothing to do with either scissors or stitches: machine produced clothing is made in a few minutes and simply altered with a few so-called “custom details”.
To shed some light on the matter, let’s go back to the basics and draw the first line between two ideas that are often purposely interchanged to add, through publicity, yet another layer of confusion in the consumers mind, very sensitive to (unrealistic) promises of personal style. There is indeed a difference between: construction technique (hand or machine sewn) and pattern drafting (unique in bespoke and standard in industrial measure).
Claiming to offer garments entirely made by hand is the quasi-exclusive prerogative of Bespoke. Nevertheless, some Italian labels (Kiton, Brioni) add another layer of confusion by making, entirely by hand in their transalpine factories, high tradition suits that are still strictly ready-to-wear. Remaining (high luxury) ready-to-wear (6,000 euros on average at Kiton), the patterns are drafted by stylists, not in “tailor-client” partnership. Personally I must confess to not understanding this type of offer. In this price range, the yellow brick road – to true Bespoke – is wide open and often less pricey (starting at 3,500 euros in some fabrics) than these products made with supremely exclusive fabrics and often beautifully cut that are nonetheless RTW. The only reasonable explanation I can come up with is the chronic inability of some wealthy gents to wait and their need to get the best immediately, as they can in every other aspect because of their social status. Would impatience be a side effect of social success?
And yet, when one has tasted the joys of bespoke, patience becomes an integral part of the ultimate pleasure of taking possession of a truly well made suit, designed and made for you by dozen of expert hands after 4 or 5 fittings and several months wait.
The question of legibility hinges on the issue of pattern. On the top of the made-to-measure pyramid is obviously Bespoke, based on a simple principle: each suit is constructed from a unique pattern drafted with and for a client after discussions with the tailor. At the bottom of the pyramid is industrial measure, based on factory construction (machine sewn in a few minutes) of a suit from a basic block but adjusted by the seller to the customer’s measures. The result is two completely different worlds, but whose values marketing is fusing together, to the sole benefit of lower quality makers.
The marketing of masculine elegance is getting blurrier because it eagerly mixes different data most likely unverifiable without enough precise knowledge of beautiful attire to how a hand constructed jacket feels to the touch or recognize an artfully made shoulder at first glance.
Without getting into all the details (which would require an entire book…), here is a first simple draft of a lexicon that we are taken full responsibility for and that we will improve over time:
BESPOKE:
- Unique pattern for a unique garment
- Unlimited fabric selection (8,000 choices with top makers) and determination of all details, including the smallest, like worked buttonholes and mounting of the shoulders.
- garment is entirely made by hand. Between 70 and 90 hours of work.
- at least 3 fittings (up to 5 in top labels). Wait time: 6 weeks to 6 months.
- Price: from 3,500 euros.
TRADITIONAL MADE-TO-MEASURE (or custom fit, custom made)
- ready-made foundation pattern adapted by the tailor (not a salesman or consultant) to the client’s measurements. Many patterns to choose from with different drops (chest to waist ratio).
- Very wide array of fabric choice (several hundreds generally). Several detail options: buttons, contrasted buttonholes, lining colour, pockets, etc.
- Mostly handcrafted with at least half processes by hand.
- measurement and delivery (possible alterations).
- Price: from 1,800 euros.
INDUSTRIAL MEASURE:
- Pre-existing pattern adapted by a sales consultant (not a tailor) to the client’s measurements. Most of the time, basic measurements are taken with a model in the boutique.
- Limited choice of patterns (generally 4 or 5), fabrics (a few dozens), details (buttons, linings, pockets).
- industrial machine construction with possible hand crafted finishes.
- Price: from 600 euros.
Of course, this first classification is not perfect and will be improved. Some acceptable quality labels offer products that border made-to-measure and industrial measure (with more hand made processes or more finishing choices). We will soon attempt to refine these categories and include (again seriously yet totally subjectively) offerings by different labels.
Until then, use these categories to ask the right questions to your sales points, consultants and tailors, rely on your sight, touch and feel. Most importantly, never forget the golden rule: if you have to compromise on one aspect of a suit, compromise on finish, even on fabric, but NEVER on the cut.
Cheers, HUGO
6 comments
Excellent article and worth focusing one one more important point -Bespoke is just that bespoken and unique and Made to Measure is consistent in cut and quality – so take your pick.
Now THAT is a good looking website ! Just FYI, there’s a “U” missing in “language” on the right hand top corner of the page. Keep up the good work!
Cheers
Vianney, thanks for the note. For the moment the “header” is the french one (this is why we say langage in french). The english header (with the categories and everything), will be released tomorrow. Glad to have english comments now. Now go and register to the lounge so that we can exchange. Cheers, HUGO
Thank you Sir. For those who don’t know Mister Cannon Jones, he’s the principal lecturer at the London College of Fashion and the author (for Scabal) of the tailoring dictionnary you’ve been reading on PG. It’s an honor to have your comments Sir. Cheers, HUGO
Nice clarification for the uninitiated. Agreed that the use of the word “custom” way too often leads to misunderstanding by the public, and ultimately, the public paying too much for what they are getting. I have two true custom suits made by an old tailor in New Jersey that used to make suits for Frank Sinatra and his entourage in his heyday. Al Certo in Secaucus, go find him readers in the US. I can confirm: nothing, I repeat, NOTHRING will ever come close to the feel and fit of wearing a true custom suit. I paid $1400 for mine. A true bargain. On does not have the choices that one would have with a more expensive tailor, he as a certain “house style,” for example, three buttons at the sleeve, etc, but the fit, it is an almost erotic sensual experience that any man should experience, but most will not, settling for cheap, fast, easy. As I do, the bulk of my clother are, of course, off the rack, discounted bargains. Keep preaching the good word in your excellent english, that “sounds french,” but is very enjoyable to read.
Dear Hugo,
Thank you once more for this nicely written article what I have read with pleasure.
I would say you are right when you are describing a trend towards MTM. You could also say a trend to more “Personalization” and capability/power of Marketing to change each and every product to a labeled good necessary to make a certain kind of “Lifestyle” complete. This leads us into a debate of capitalism. What is “The life cycle“ of a product? Why do we need growth in an economy?
Back to business….
I have to remarks two your article:
1) You are asking for the right to exist for brands like Brioni or Kiton because there are in a “price range, the yellow brick road – to true Bespoke – is wide open and often less pricey … than these products made with supremely exclusive fabrics and often beautifully cut that are nonetheless RTW”. I am sure you would go to a bespoke tailor and order a bunch of excellent suits (as those excellent ones I normally admire in your blog). Your “explanation … is the chronic inability of some wealthy gents to wait and their need to get the best immediately, as they can in every other aspect because of their social status.”
I am sorry but I do not agree with you in this point!
Yes, it might be the case that the “rich and famous” becoming more and more impatient due to social success. I have seen this phenomenon inside the Bank where I am working. Lots of Senior Managers just don´t like shopping and for some it’s a pain to meet their tailor three times for a fitting. Thereby you extend the production process of a bespoke suit sometimes to half a year or even longer.
But the main issue is the following:
A normal suit wearing men is normally working in a complete different field like you are. Normal men will never develop so much creativity like you when ordering a suit. On the other hand bespoke tailoring can be a problem!
Example: A normal suit wearing men is going to the tailors for the first time in his life and simply doesn´t know what to order!
Client will ask the tailor: What can I have here? The tailor will certainly answer something like: Everything you want Sir!
Confusion complete!!! In the end the client orders typically a 100% wool gray suit with two button closure and dual rear vent. That’s it. Is it a mistake of the tailor? I don´t think so, how could he ever recommend a pink stripe double breasted suit if he does not want to lose his reputation (I exaggerate a bit to make my point clear).
Same men different example: You are going to Ralph Lauren Purple Label, Attolini, and Kiton etc. Flagship Store and you will find THE SUIT.
A suit you would never be able to design yourself! As described above, a normal suit wearing men would not be as creative as you are in questions of an own and unique style! This is also the answer to your own success.
This summary leads me into my second remark:
2) You say that “women’s fashion is totally immune against this trend and not affected at all by the bespoke invasion. There are many reasons for this: ladies are playing in a much wider creative field than gents, and simply does not have the time (and do not need) to build a long lasting personal style.”
This time I totally agree with you! And in my point of view it’s the answer to remark 1)! Fashion for women is much more versatile then men’s. So they can never be as creative as professional designers. And they normally don´t try to…
As long as men are in need for advice in style there will be brands like Kiton! Sartorial quality with a distinctive lifestyle!
With best regards
Gero