Parisian Gentleman


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The PG Guide of Quality Seals

Is the war of the shoulders finally over?

by Hugo Jacomet

Gentlemen,

Our loyal and regular readers probably know the importance of shoulder construction in the overall allure of a suit or jacket.

Without getting into the nitty-gritty that you will find in this site’s articles, let us very briefly outline the difference between the structured, British shoulder, and the sloping Italian, or Neapolitan shoulder. Of course, there are different subdivisions within both “schools” : the Roman, con rollino and spalla camicia are all Italian shoulders, and some labels even have their own shoulder assembly, as do Cifonelli and Anderson & Sheppard.

In this aesthetics war that deeply impacts elegants’ silhouettes, since a sloping or structured shoulder give a very different aspect to the garment, even if it is slightly structured or barely sloped. Some highly traditional labels have never ventured on the side of the other shoulder, their shoulder assembly is almost a part of their DNA.

Venerable Neapolitan label Kiton had been, up until recently, the unquestionable advocate for the sloping shoulder, never straying from this construction method, typical of Neapolitan tailors.

Albeit under the radar, Kiton has recently started to err on the other side by offering, for the first time in its history, a quaint collection named “Cipa” after its founder Ciro Paone, to younger, bolder and more modern clients (yet just as wealthy).

Here are two visual evidences of the “betrayal”, well executed by Kiton : a pure silk dinner jacket with a contrasting lapel, and a stunning white hemp (!) jacket. And let us face it, even such expert eyes as ours never could have guessed that these two beautiful pieces originated from Naples, even less from Kiton.

Is the war of shoulders finally over?

Cheers, HUGO


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