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Study and Variation on the Jacket Pockets by Paul Grassart

by Hugo Jacomet

Gentlemen,

Here is a small article coutresy of our friend Paul Grassart (website – in french : Paul Grassart Tailleur), about the all-too-often forgotten jacket pockets :

Study and Variation on the Jacket Pockets

by Paul Grassart

Here is a small exploration of the influence of suit pockets on the overall silhouette. The idea here is to show that, by slightly tweaking the aspect of your pockets by one small factor at a time, you can end up with a substantially different-looking silhouette, while at the same time keeping the rest of the suit completely identical.

The main parameters to watch for :

- The vertical position of the pocket

- The width and length of the flap

- Slanted versus non-slanted pockets

So without further ado, consider the following pictorial example : A simple, single-breasted (one-button), straight lapel, straight pockets–positioned at « medium  height ».


First variation– flap length :

Second variation–vertical position of the pocket on the jacket :

Up until now, we’ve kept the pockets straight (I.E.,, parallel with the bottom part of the jacket). Now, let us see the effect of a slightly slanted pocket :

Of course, variations in positioning and width of the pocket are also possible on a slanted pocket :

Another option to consider is the more casual patch pocket. You can get even more creative here, since the patch pocket is more flexible to work with than more common types of pockets. The presence – or lack thereof – of a flap changes the look drastically. You could also make it a bellow pocket— à la hunting jacket, or add a specific pleat in the middle, like a Watteau pleat. There are many possibilities :

Of course, the pockets are not isolated elements of the jacket. They have to be considered in relation with the chest area, specifically with the lapel, but more importantly with the buttons (the number of buttons, their position and spacing ). These are but a few of the variables that resonate strongly with the pockets and influence the look of the overall silouhette.

Paul Grassart.


This post is also available in: French

One comment

Gazman — 20 September 2013 15:42

Very informative article, but one question: what is the ideal type of pocket and where should it be positioned in terms of vertical position to give the illusion of greater height? In other words, what is best suited for a short man?

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