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Don’t Fear the Tie Tack : A Symbol of Audacity
“To live is the rarest thing in the world. Most people exist, that is all.” - Oscar Wilde We have a motto: It’s never about the clothes or accessories…it’s about how the clothes or accessories make you and others feel. And when it comes to tie tacks, it’s hard to deny that this accessory can make [...] Read more – ‘Don’t Fear the Tie Tack : A Symbol of Audacity’
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American Tailoring : Redemption Song
photo credit: Steffen Roth GAY TALESE: FINE AND DANDY As a young copy boy in 1953, Gay Talese showed up for work each day at the New York Times office wearing a hand stitched Italian suit. The following year he would be drafted into the U.S. Army, and not long after after his return from service, would [...] Read more – ‘American Tailoring : Redemption Song’
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A Dialectic On The Dichotomy of Men’s Dress
A Dialectic on the Dichotomy of Men’s Dress by Dr. Benjamin Wild Contributing Editor http://linleywild.com We’ll start with a few questions: 1) When wearing a necktie, should the tail extend below the front? 2) Name one occasion when it would be appropriate to wear a dinner jacket with shorts. 3) On a three-button jacket, would [...] Read more – ‘A Dialectic On The Dichotomy of Men’s Dress’
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Bespoke Tailoring : the Parisian Devil is in the Details…
Gentlemen, it’s now rather well known and accepted among all the bespoke enthusiasts in the world that French Tailoring houses are literally obsessed by exquisite finishing details and truly perpetuate the French “Haute Couture” tradition and know-how. As a Cifonelli long time faithful client, I can personally testify that it’s true. Case in point : [...] Read more – ‘Bespoke Tailoring : the Parisian Devil is in the Details…’
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Of British Tailoring
Huntsman One-Button Sport Jacket The subtleties of traditional English tailoring have become somewhat diluted with the influx of made-to-measure offerings and the practice of outsourcing tailoring work. As a reminder, if not for posterity, we review what defines the traditional English cut, keeping in mind that the inspiration for English tailoring has primarily been the [...] Read more – ‘Of British Tailoring’
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My Tailor Lives in Paris and French Cachet
Charles and Marc de Luca It is the autumn of 1670 and Moliére has just completed a hilarious five-act comedy ballet. The funky title of Moliere’s play, Le Bourgeois Gentilhomme (The Middle-Class Aristocrat) creates so much curiosity that an urgent need is created in Paris to obtain a seat for the show. The opening performance [...] Read more – ‘My Tailor Lives in Paris and French Cachet’
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My Experience on How to Build a Wardrobe
Gentlemen, Every day, you are more and more numerous to read these pages ; people of every age group, sharing a passion for men’s style. Discovering classic men’s style was a shock for me, and I’m pretty sure I’m not only speaking for myself here. A few simple notions and a little education on the [...] Read more – ‘My Experience on How to Build a Wardrobe’
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Lapel Gape Never Again! Canvasses, Chest Pieces and Other Suit Mysteries
A nice illustration of a full canvass, chest piece and suiting shell by The Compass, with an article expounding upon the subject. It takes a while to feel comfortable with the term ‘ canvassed suit ‘. After all, it usually requires at least a little experience with sewing to have a clue about what, exactly ‘canvassing’ [...] Read more – ‘Lapel Gape Never Again! Canvasses, Chest Pieces and Other Suit Mysteries’
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Pull Your Pants Up — Raising the Trouser Waistline
As recent as 2010, high-waisted trousers have been synonymous with getting old. In the article Why wearing trousers high on your waist like Simon Cowell is a sure sign you are getting old , by MailOnline, we see clearly how, at this time, a low waist was seen as youthful and a high waist was associated with [...] Read more – ‘Pull Your Pants Up — Raising the Trouser Waistline’
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For the Love of Proportions! Ties, Lapels and Shirt Collars
It’s a simple formula worth knowing: The widest part of the lapel and the widest part of the tie should be similar in width. We especially like this illustration by BlackLapel.com : The next time you wonder why someone looks so good in a suit, note the lapel/tie width ratio and see if it is influencing your [...] Read more – ‘For the Love of Proportions! Ties, Lapels and Shirt Collars’
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Do Your Sleeves Hang Low? How Sleeve Pitch Can Make or Break a Suit
Prince Charles, whose tailor is typically Anderson & Sheppard, demonstrates a correct sleeve pitch. photo credit : Celebrity Red Carpet. DO YOUR SLEEVES HANG LOW ? It’s easy to overlook the humble sleeve. After all, the allure of brimming lapels, marbled horn buttons, milanese buttonholes, and the dizzying fallout from exposure to textured tweeds and [...] Read more – ‘Do Your Sleeves Hang Low? How Sleeve Pitch Can Make or Break a Suit’
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Pull yourself together : A Belt & Braces Commentary on Modern Man’s Silhouette
A Belt & Braces Commentary on Modern Man’s Silhouette by Dr Benjamin Wild http://linleywild.com GETTING IT UNDER MY BELT I’ve never liked belts. They disrupt the clothed silhouette by gathering and puckering fabric. They form an unsightly bulge beneath jumpers and look awkward peeking below a waistcoat, along with the tie end, untucked shirt and [...] Read more – ‘Pull yourself together : A Belt & Braces Commentary on Modern Man’s Silhouette’
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Study and Variation on the Jacket Pockets by Paul Grassart
Gentlemen, Here is a small article coutresy of our friend Paul Grassart (website – in french : Paul Grassart Tailleur), about the all-too-often forgotten jacket pockets : Read more – ‘Study and Variation on the Jacket Pockets by Paul Grassart’
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Why Align Oneself ?
Bespoke Suit, Francesco Smalto Couture Gentlemen, in matters of elegance, as in many other matters in life, common preconceptions die hard. Said preconceptions often seem to secretly rule the judgement of many a man. And what’s worse, is that no one ever seems to question their veracity, let alone their origins. In the realm of classic men’s [...] Read more – ‘Why Align Oneself ?’
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A Second Look at Trouser Turnups (Cuffs)
In Europe, more men seem to be wearing cuffed trousers lately.  Whether men have been influenced by jean legs being turned up in almost every style and online magazine imaginable, or whether men are just looking for a change in their wardrobe, perhaps the trouser cuff deserves a closer look to understand its history and [...] Read more – ‘A Second Look at Trouser Turnups (Cuffs)’
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Super 100s and Such — Understanding Yarn Count of Shirts and Suits
The subject of yarn count isn’t a topic that draws a crowd. When I worked in textiles and dealt with fabric thread count, the topic was rarely discussed, since merely the words ‘thread count’ caused blank stares and the sudden onset of attention deficit. Still, we can’t deny that the fabrics that morph into our shirts and [...] Read more – ‘Super 100s and Such — Understanding Yarn Count of Shirts and Suits’
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The Braving of the Buttonhole: The Fourth Signal of a Handmade Suit
By Sonya Glyn Nicholson. Opening image © Andrew Fox / Corbis Tom Wolfe has a vice. As one of the most culturally significant figures of the sixties whose work has been met with critical acclaim for books such as The Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test and The Bonfire of the Vanities, Wolfe confesses in his essay in the NY Herald [...] Read more – ‘The Braving of the Buttonhole: The Fourth Signal of a Handmade Suit’
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Zero Collar Gap : The Third Signal of a (good) Handmade Suit
by Sonya Glyn Nicholson, PG Senior Editor. It’s surprising to notice that so many people with exquisite taste fail to understand the importance of a good collar fit with no “collar gap”. In my own experience, I have been slow to pay attention to collar gaps on suits, especially when mesmerized by an otherwise incredible [...] Read more – ‘Zero Collar Gap : The Third Signal of a (good) Handmade Suit’
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Cuffs, Ruffs & Contours: dressing men’s necks
Cuffs, Ruffs & Contours: dressing men’s necks by Dr Benjamin Wild (http://linleywild.com/) Charley: The young ones have no manners. The other day at the carwash, a young man looked me up and down and asked me if I was a natural blonde. George: What did you say? Charley: I looked him straight in the eye [...] Read more – ‘Cuffs, Ruffs & Contours: dressing men’s necks’
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The Lapel Roll: The First Signal of a Handmade Suit
Sometimes when we experience something magnificent, it is difficult to return to the old way of doing things. When we become accustomed to drinking good wine, it seems meaningless to drink cheap tasting wine. When we experience a job that gives us the freedom to create-at-will and brings us fulfillment, it is difficult to change [...] Read more – ‘The Lapel Roll: The First Signal of a Handmade Suit’
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