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The Braving of the Buttonhole: The Fourth Signal of a Handmade Suit
By Sonya Glyn Nicholson. Opening image © Andrew Fox / Corbis Tom Wolfe has a vice. As one of the most culturally significant figures of the sixties whose work has been met with critical acclaim for books such as The Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test and The Bonfire of the Vanities, Wolfe confesses in his essay in the NY Herald [...] Read more – ‘The Braving of the Buttonhole: The Fourth Signal of a Handmade Suit’
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Zero Collar Gap : The Third Signal of a (good) Handmade Suit
by Sonya Glyn Nicholson, PG Senior Editor. It’s surprising to notice that so many people with exquisite taste fail to notice the importance of a good collar fit with no “collar gap”. In my own experience, I have been slow to pay attention to collar gaps on suits, especially when mesmerized by an otherwise incredible [...] Read more – ‘Zero Collar Gap : The Third Signal of a (good) Handmade Suit’
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Cuffs, Ruffs & Contours: dressing men’s necks
Cuffs, Ruffs & Contours: dressing men’s necks by Dr Benjamin Wild (http://linleywild.com/) Charley: The young ones have no manners. The other day at the carwash, a young man looked me up and down and asked me if I was a natural blonde. George: What did you say? Charley: I looked him straight in the eye [...] Read more – ‘Cuffs, Ruffs & Contours: dressing men’s necks’
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The Lapel Roll: The First Signal of a Handmade Suit
Sometimes when we experience something magnificent, it is difficult to return to the old way of doing things. When we become accustomed to drinking good wine, it seems meaningless to drink cheap tasting wine. When we experience a job that gives us the freedom to create-at-will and brings us fulfillment, it is difficult to change [...] Read more – ‘The Lapel Roll: The First Signal of a Handmade Suit’
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Astaire, Cooper and Grant. They don’t make them like that anymore…
THE STYLE & SYMBOLISM OF FRED ASTAIRE, GARY COOPER & CARY GRANT By Benjamin Wild. http://linleywild.com Man’s stock appears to be falling. He is suffering a public relations crisis. As recent as three years ago, Hanna Rosin contemplated ‘The End of Man’, as his physical size and strength are of little consequence in our post-industrial [...] Read more – ‘Astaire, Cooper and Grant. They don’t make them like that anymore…’
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Cranking it up a notch with Paul Grassart
Gentlemen, As we had done a while ago in a long article about the quality of wool, we are pleased to post a new article by contributor and PG friend Paul Grassart, a Paris tailor whose PAUL GRASSART blog is a wealth of very detailed information for our most curious and passionate readers. Here is the [...] Read more – ‘Cranking it up a notch with Paul Grassart’
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Jacket Buttoning Ritual – What Men Already Know
-By Sonya Nicholson The ritual of suit and sport jackets “buttoning and unbuttoning” is very simple:  Each time a man or woman wearing a suit or sports jacket sits, he or she unbuttons one jacket button. And every time he or she stands, the person re-buttons the jacket button. I love rituals.  There is something knowing [...] Read more – ‘Jacket Buttoning Ritual – What Men Already Know’
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Shoe shining lesson by Shoe Snob Justin Fitzpatrick
Gentlemen, Here is a very interesting link to a very well made video (which is rare enough to mention), posted on the excellent website Mr Porter and “starring” Justin Fitzpatrick, aka The Shoe Snob, who you probably know is a close friend of Parisian Gentleman. Justin is a passionate and fascinating American Gentleman. Former apprentice [...] Read more – ‘Shoe shining lesson by Shoe Snob Justin Fitzpatrick’
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« Monsieur », French journal of elegant gents: September 1920
Gentlemen, It is our pleasure to open PG’s pages to Pierre de Bonneuil as an exceptional contributor by gracing you with a very complete summary of September 1920’s edition of French magazine Monsieur. As Pierre outlines on his Facebook page, “Monsieur was founded in December 1919 at 4 rue de Tronchet in Paris by Jacques [...] Read more – ‘« Monsieur », French journal of elegant gents: September 1920’
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Masculine luxury booming despite the world economic crisis, deciphering a surprising paradox
Gentlemen, Here is, as requested by those unable to get their paws on French Dandy Magazine, the complete article penned by yours truly in the penultimate issue of the magazine. This synthetic article attempted to provide a joined perspective of two texts published by PG during the last months, namely : a Reuters article on [...] Read more – ‘Masculine luxury booming despite the world economic crisis, deciphering a surprising paradox’
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A (nearly) perfect combination
Gentlemen, Today’s post offers a particularly interesting example that perfectly demonstrates the subtle art of mixing colours and patterns. It is a composition found in the F/W collection by beautiful and great Brioni, which PG appreciates to its true (and high) value. At first glance, there is no doubt that the ensemble is very well [...] Read more – ‘A (nearly) perfect combination’
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The European League of natural shoulder supporters
Gentlemen, Fear not, this is not an umpteenth political listing for the European elections (that gave way to the arrival of strange, to say the least, listings such as “Cannabis without borders” and the likes), nor an association of butchers up in arms to defend the shoulder of organic lamb. It is rather tailors across [...] Read more – ‘The European League of natural shoulder supporters’
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On the small blade of the tie
Gentlemen, A few months ago, I shared an interesting video (here it is: KNOT IT LIKE AN ITALIAN ) which, to say the least, threw a bit of sand in some well-oiled habits pertaining to wearing the necktie. It was perfectly in line with the recommendations contained in a text by Michael Drake, which we [...] Read more – ‘On the small blade of the tie’
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Invisible mending: an amazing craft under threat!
Gentlemen, Last week, one of our readers, to whom we extend our warmest gratitude, alerted us on the fact that the very last invisible mending workshop in Paris is about to close. La Maison Perrin, located at 29 rue des Petits-Champs in the 1st district, is set to close after its owner, Mister Perrin, retires, [...] Read more – ‘Invisible mending: an amazing craft under threat!’
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Gaziano & Girling Bespoke
Gentlemen, You know we follow very closely the work of Tony Gaziano, who we think is, along with Pierre Corthay, Dimitri Gomez, Anthony Delos and a few others including Lazlo Vass and Kojiro Suzuki only to name a few, one of the best bespoke shoe maker worldwide. His work is pretty easily recognizable to the [...] Read more – ‘Gaziano & Girling Bespoke’
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Windowpane pattern : worth trying
Gentlemen, Since the ubiquitous yet gifted Tom Ford has brought back windowpane patterned suits in 2009 for a publicity campaign that was quite hard to miss (see below), the pattern is more and more often seen in quality ready-to-wear and made to measure collections, and of course, in bespoke. For history’s sake, this very particular [...] Read more – ‘Windowpane pattern : worth trying’
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The Scholte Drape Cut, you like it or you don’t…
Gentlemen, The most knowledgeable among you have certainly heard of the “famous” drape cut, allegedly designed by Frederick Scholte, tailor to the Prince of Wales who had noticed that adding an extra amount of fabric to the shoulders of a jacket could create a more casual and athletic look. This type of cut is translated [...] Read more – ‘The Scholte Drape Cut, you like it or you don’t…’
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Sartorial whims
Gentlemen, Daily followers of PG’s Facebook page have noticed that I have been sharing my sartorial whims in the last few days. In response to your many messages, I will try, whenever possible, to maintain this series and to share, several times a week, my personal compositions. This is of course, 100% subjective, as opposed [...] Read more – ‘Sartorial whims’
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Marc Guyot Norfolk hunting jacket
Gentlemen, Unsurprisingly, the tireless Marc Guyot once again delivers a slightly unconventional creation by its lines and construction: an extremely sophisticated hunting jacket that is typical MG, to say the least. It is a Norfolk hunting jacket. As explained on blog Green sleeves to a ground, this type of jacket is originally attributed to the [...] Read more – ‘Marc Guyot Norfolk hunting jacket’
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PG Curio : Darcy Clothing
Gentlemen, This shop and its online version should ravish those who recognized themselves in The Chap manifesto, as well as collectors and the boldest of you (I can name a few). Welcome to “Darcy Clothing” (former “vintage shirt company”), veritable institution based in Lewes, an obscure little city of the East Sussex, and now available [...] Read more – ‘PG Curio : Darcy Clothing’
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