Parisian Gentleman

Op-ed Pieces

How to Have Great Conversations — Martine’s Guidelines from 1866
What type of conversationist are you…and do you recognize yourself or anyone else in these archetypes to avoid? 1. The Loud Talker 2. The Life-Sharer 3. The Clever Bore 4. The Indifferent of Apathetic Bore 5. The Lingering Bore 6. The Hobby-Riders 7. The Malaprops (aka Mr. or Ms. Inappropriate) 8. The Egotistical Bore Martine’s [...] Read more – ‘How to Have Great Conversations — Martine’s Guidelines from 1866’
MAIN Conversation
American Tailoring : Redemption Song
photo credit: Steffen Roth GAY TALESE: FINE AND DANDY As a young copy boy in 1953, Gay Talese showed up for work each day at the New York Times office wearing a hand stitched Italian suit. The following year he would be drafted into the U.S. Army, and not long after after his return from service, would [...] Read more – ‘American Tailoring : Redemption Song’
Gay Talese
A Dialectic On The Dichotomy of Men’s Dress
A Dialectic on the Dichotomy of Men’s Dress by Dr. Benjamin Wild Contributing Editor We’ll start with a few questions: 1) When wearing a necktie, should the tail extend below the front? 2) Name one occasion when it would be appropriate to wear a dinner jacket with shorts. 3) On a three-button jacket, would [...] Read more – ‘A Dialectic On The Dichotomy of Men’s Dress’
Of British Tailoring
Huntsman One-Button Sport Jacket The subtleties of traditional English tailoring have become somewhat diluted with the influx of made-to-measure offerings and the practice of outsourcing tailoring work. As a reminder, if not for posterity, we review what defines the traditional English cut, keeping in mind that the inspiration for English tailoring has primarily been the [...] Read more – ‘Of British Tailoring’
My Tailor Lives in Paris and French Cachet
Charles and Marc de Luca It is the autumn of 1670 and Moliére has just completed a hilarious five-act comedy ballet. The funky title of Moliere’s play, Le Bourgeois Gentilhomme (The Middle-Class Aristocrat) creates so much curiosity that an urgent need is created in Paris to obtain a seat for the show. The opening performance [...] Read more – ‘My Tailor Lives in Paris and French Cachet’
My Experience on How to Build a Wardrobe
Gentlemen, Every day, you are more and more numerous to read these pages ; people of every age group, sharing a passion for men’s style. Discovering classic men’s style was a shock for me, and I’m pretty sure I’m not only speaking for myself here. A few simple notions and a little education on the [...] Read more – ‘My Experience on How to Build a Wardrobe’
EN tete
The Canvas War Has Been Declared
Gentlemen, As you probably already know, it’s safe to say that there is a general consensus that canvassing – or lack thereof – is a key point that differentiates the suits of an honorable-make from those destined for mass consumption. As a key factor in terms of quality, the subject of canvassing may have started [...] Read more – ‘The Canvas War Has Been Declared’
Of Snobbery
Gentlemen, Yesterday afternoon I was interviewed by a journalist from GQ magazine (France) who questioned me for a while on the subject of the current men’s style revolution, in prevision of an article entitled « Les nouveaux snobs, comment se démarquer » (« The new snob man ; how to differentiate yourself from the crowd »). Now I don’t want [...] Read more – ‘Of Snobbery’
Hugo chez Tim
The Unflappable Nonchalance of Gary Cooper
It’s an odd twist when a prominent Hollywood actor is noted as much for his understated style as he is recognized for his work as an actor. Such is the case of Gary Cooper, who grew up in Montana, a dream location for many men, waking each morning on his family’s 600-acre ranch and gazing [...] Read more – ‘The Unflappable Nonchalance of Gary Cooper’
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Pull yourself together : A Belt & Braces Commentary on Modern Man’s Silhouette
A Belt & Braces Commentary on Modern Man’s Silhouette by Dr Benjamin Wild GETTING IT UNDER MY BELT I’ve never liked belts. They disrupt the clothed silhouette by gathering and puckering fabric. They form an unsightly bulge beneath jumpers and look awkward peeking below a waistcoat, along with the tie end, untucked shirt and [...] Read more – ‘Pull yourself together : A Belt & Braces Commentary on Modern Man’s Silhouette’
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On Contemporary Men’s Style
Classical men’s style is back. The media has understood this well enough, if we consider the ever-increasing number of features on the subject that are published daily. Yet, despite the ever-growing media attention, the phenomenon itself is still quite hard to notice… Take a walk in the street and look around – it is still very [...] Read more – ‘On Contemporary Men’s Style’
(A Text On) The Art of Being Discreet and A Few Secrets That You May Not Know
It is a mad world when the rich and famous are checking into rehab centers and the people of the working class feel anxious about whether they will be able to hold on to the very jobs that they dislike doing. Sometimes the world feels a little upside-down and the unimportant gets confused with the [...] Read more – ‘(A Text On) The Art of Being Discreet and A Few Secrets That You May Not Know’
Seven Things to Look for in a Suit
Something happens when we first step into the oasis of handmade suiting. If you have commissioned a handmade suit before, then you remember the lake of fabric at the tailor’s house, and being asked to choose just one.  You recall being asked to direct how many buttons you want on your coat, the type of [...] Read more – ‘Seven Things to Look for in a Suit’
In this photo, Lorenzo Cifonelli himself models a jacket for "The Rake" with practically no chest area exposed (specifically referred to as a lapel with "no chest"). This is a more masculine lapel choice that broadens the celebrates the chest area, even extending an invitation to draw the eye towards the neck and chest.
To Have and To Hold (For Better or Worse) –The Clutch Bag
To Have and to Hold (For Better or Worse) — The Clutch Bag By Dr Benjamin Wild Men’s penchant for accessorising could be likened to a surging tidal wave: it started slowly with tie bars and crisply folded monotone pocket squares; grew stronger and faster with brighter colours and floral prints; became powerful, even [...] Read more – ‘To Have and To Hold (For Better or Worse) –The Clutch Bag’
Clutch Busy
A good sartorial education can change your life
Gentlemen, At the risk of sounding a bit categorical in the eye of those who stumbled onto this page by chance – though unlikely as it is since PG is by essence, a website promoting research, study and attentive reading as opposed to idle browsing – today, we chose a title which, beyond its apparent [...] Read more – ‘A good sartorial education can change your life’
Ede & Ravencroft
Icons of Style… or how did Robert Pattinson get so stylish ?
Icons of style… or how did Robert Pattinson get so stylish ? By Dr Benjamin Wild, Parisian Gentleman’s permanent contributor. Are league tables of Best Dressed male celebrities an accurate barometer of men’s attitude towards style? The ascendancy of Twilight star Robert Pattinson, who has remained in the top five of GQ‘s Best Dressed list since winning [...] Read more – ‘Icons of Style… or how did Robert Pattinson get so stylish ?’
Of the Obsolescence of Man
Of the Obsolescence of Man Editorial by Hugo Jacomet (Wonderful) translation by Joseph Nexon As Parisian Gentleman attracts multiplying and ever more intense projects and requests (writing projects, conferences, master-classes, Parisian Gentleman events, films), I must confess to still being surprised at the breadth of the “sartorial phenomenon” on the internet and by the worldwide [...] Read more – ‘Of the Obsolescence of Man’
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The Braving of the Buttonhole: The Fourth Signal of a Handmade Suit
By Sonya Glyn Nicholson. Opening image © Andrew Fox / Corbis Tom Wolfe has a vice. As one of the most culturally significant figures of the sixties whose work has been met with critical acclaim for books such as The Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test and The Bonfire of the Vanities, Wolfe confesses in his essay in the NY Herald [...] Read more – ‘The Braving of the Buttonhole: The Fourth Signal of a Handmade Suit’
No Girls Allowed ?
By Sonya Glyn Nicholson Some things are difficult to explain. I know a lawyer who shut down his law business one day and became a ranger in the army. I know a neighbor who sold most of her belongings one weekend, and left on Monday to live on an Indian reservation. I know a sales [...] Read more – ‘No Girls Allowed ?’
A Shoulder That Sings: The Second Signal of a Handmade Suit
The thing we know about men is that if they love a certain thing, then they are capable of immersing themselves in the subject of their affection until they become gurus in their own right. And, it is a little fascinating for women to watch this drive that men have to pursue and grasp technical information about [...] Read more – ‘A Shoulder That Sings: The Second Signal of a Handmade Suit’
Martin greenfield