The new life of Berluti

Hugo JACOMET

The new life of Berluti

Gentlemen,

As you all know, Berluti has just launched a new menswear collections under the direction of the aptly named Alessandro Sartori (!), former artistic director at Zegna.

I personally find this new collection rather interesting, despite its certain lack of discretion and understatement.

We might, when the time comes, offer a full feature article on this first collection. For now, we shall settle for an analysis of the many interesting aspects of the above image (thank you Guillaume) once again highlighting, through the absence of a good number of them, the importance of some key fundamentals of elegant menswear.

What we are looking at is a nice three-piece single-breasted suit with two colour stripes, peak lapels, no-lapel waistcoat, grenadine silk necktie and… a squared pattern shirt.

We like:

-Let us admit it, a rather well executed overall result.

– The unusually longer short blade on the necktie (a very interesting Italian twist)

– The trousers worn on the natural waistline.

– The very high position of the peak lapel notch, which adds a nice contemporary touch to the jacket

We do not like (at all):

– The excessive pull on the fit of the vest. As much as we love how a slight pull on the working button of a jacket gives it a lovely dash of nonchalance, here it is simply too exaggerated to work.

– The stripe/check combo which we consider a very tasteless matching.

– The very high and narrow shirt collar that strongly clashes with the beautiful suit. A wider collar with tips tucked under the jacket lapel was the way to go here.

To be continued.

Cheers, HUGO