Italian tailoring consists not only of the worldwide-known Neapolitan tailoring that mostly features soft shoulders and light canvassing. Milan and Rome also have their specificities. For example, Northern Italian suits tend to be more structured, albeit not even close to what Savile Row tailors offer due to its military heritage.
Garments made in Rome comes down to finding a middle-ground between the substance and structure of Musella Dembech in Milano and the shirt-like lightness of Sartoria Panico in Napoli—a happy median that does not yield to extreme trends or features but strives for its on take on the sometimes elusive goal of elegance.
Andrea Luparelli isn’t exactly a newcomer in menswear and has been the subject of my very first contribution to Parisian Gentleman, back in 2010 (see the archive HERE). My enthusiasm for tailoring has indeed been triggered by the wonderful discovery of the Sartoria Ripense, a discreet and elegant lair nestled on the via di Ripetta, a stone’s throw away from the Piazza del Popolo, and my interest has been fervent ever since that fateful day.
The atelier offers a wide range of garments, mostly bespoke, but also rain coats, suede jackets, umbrellas, ties, pocket squares, shirts or leather travel bags. The tailors are fast-at-work downstairs, creating patterns, cutting or making the some of the finest buttonholes around. I can say with confidence that these craftsmen display extraordinary workmanship, after commissioning dozens of garments throughout the world with at least 15 different tailors.
A third of my wardrobe is nevertheless Sartoria Ripense garments. Readers often wonder how to choose a tailor and how one compares one to another.
In my opinion, personal fit plays a significant role. Rare are the times when a tailor doesn’t play the role of a shrink (without having signed up for the task—but he does not really have a choice in the matter, I’m afraid).
Typically, stepping into a tailoring workshop is like entering a gentlemen’s club. All topics are possible except religion and politics (which can also be allowed after years of relationship-building). At Ripense, a beautiful burgundy leather club couch in the atelier makes the place particularly welcoming. Andrea Luparelli has the real gift to unlock the sartorial potential of his clients, as he gradually introduces them to unusual, more daring fabrics and garments that may initially be perceived as a challenge.
Andrea Luparelli is a man of assured tastes and his sought-after appearance in Pitti Uomo and The Sartorialist’s Scott Schumann’s photography serve as testimony to his good taste. His sense of style inspires, as he is able to transmit a sense of elegance to even aggressively dashing outfits. Personal fit, a good sense of style and great craftsmanship clinches a strong tailor-customer relationship that is sure to pass the test of time.
The house cut at Sartoria Ripense is a cut that deserves reverence.
At Sartoria Ripense, respecting the house cut is part of the total experience and deviating too much from the signature style would be a pity since it is precisely the unique Ripense style (i.e., balancing structure with deconstruction) that makes their suits so special. I have learned how listening to Andrea’s guidance has benefited the outcome of my bespoke ventures and encourage you to also take advantage of his flair and wisdom.
My latest commission with Sartoria Ripense in Rome? A cashmere double breasted notch lapel overcoat with a half belt and top and bottom pleats as per the Martingale style.
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Sartoria Ripense : Via di Ripetta, 38, 00186 Rome, Italy
Tél : +39 06 323 3727
Email : firstname.lastname@example.org
Website : Ripense
Photos credits :
– Opening picture : The Rake
– Five last pictures : Marta Rovatti Studihrad
– Paul-Lux Tumblr